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The USA 566 SRAM Rival Road Bike gives you all the race-domination performance you expect from a Look frame without being so overkill that you can’t use it on training rides. Full carbon construction keeps the package light while SRAM Rival components ensure precise shifting, easy braking, and the durability to handle seasons of abuse. This entire Look bike comes in under 19 pounds, so you won’t be held back by extra heft when you’re racing a century or training on the steepest hills around your house.
Compact geometry keeps frame stiffness up and weight down
Blend of High Resistance and High Modulus carbon for a compliant ride with-out hindering performance
Pro Tour Geometry shortens top tube and raises head tube for a more upright, comfortable riding position
Bottom Line: Train hard, race fast, crush the competition.
The XL (57) is as big as this bike is made. That being said I own the bike and am 6 foot even. I could have road the L also and I have shortened the bike with a stem swap. My brother is taller than me and liked the bike witht the stock 120mm stem. So the XL should work fine.
I have been riding this bike for almost a year now. Overall, I can't imagine how an everyday cyclist or aspiring competitor would be unhappy with this bike. I have tested Look's marketing philosophy on this bike, completing long road races and short crits this year. I have been in love with the bike and groupo from the first day. Knowing I would be racing some on this bike I was worried about comments that this bike's relaxed geometry was not appropriate for competition. I found that to not be a concern at all unless you prefer a very agressive drop. Over the course of the year I acquired a preference for a more aero position and removed most the spacers from the headset. My fitter said I have optimal racing position with the bike.The Fulcrum 7 wheelset like most complete bikes is a bit heavy and replacing them with Easton EA90s for fast training, events, and races proved to be well worth the money. My only complaint is I found the seat very uncomfortable and quickly swapped it out. I thought a lot about how I would review this bike but thought I would leave it to cycling news for a more impartial view.http://www.cyclingnews.com/reviews/look-566-origin
Very good -AND- timely review! I've been looking at this bike, and had the same questions/concerns you mentioned. Your comments have eased any concerns I might have had regarding the bikes performance as a race/crit bike.
I'm thinking of buying and upgrading to Mavic Ksyrium Elites
What is BCD of SRAM Rival crankset? It would be possible use chainrings 53/39T? What 53/39T chainrings are compatible to SRAM Rival crankset? Do you have the model of hub/freewheel used with OG-1070? I have a pair of Matrix carbon 38 mm wheels and I intend to use with the bike. What do I have to do for use Rival drivetrain with that wheelset? Thank you very much!
The SRAM Rival crankset is 130BCD and the 50/34T can be swapped with a 53/39T. SRAM chainrings are available but you can use aftermarket rings or Rotor Rings.
The OG-1070 Cassette is compatible with any 8/9/10 speed Shimano wheelset including your Matrix 38s. The Cassette is not compatible with the new Shimano 10-speed deep-sline cassette bodies. All in all your setup looks awesome.
This is an interesting shot showing the effects of the twisted chainstays. I am sure the wideness of the stay where it is twisted have an aero disadvantage but the backend rides plush man. Ahhhh.
So how much steer tube is left on a size large(55) fork? I need to know how much spacer I can add to the steer tube to customize the fit. I hope there's plenty steer tube is left after cutting.
Usually that best way to tackle this problem is with proper stem selection, not higher spacer stack. This bike has a carbon steerer tube and most manufactures reccommend a maximum of 35mm of space on a 1 1/8 inch carbon steerer. It is usually safer and much more professional looking if you get extra height but fliping the stock 6 degree stem or swapping out the stem for a +10 degree or higher rise. Real cyclist may also offer to ship the stem uncut if you prefer to have a professional fit completed at your local shop.
When the bike is built we leave every spacer on that it comes with so you can adjust the fit. The post is cut in house by our certified mechanics so if you would like to leave it longer please give us a call and we can make sure it is left long when you place your order.
Look at those great ergo-carbon levers on the 2009 SRAM Rival and look Mom, no cables hanging out like that Shimano Ultergra. If you haven't read Bicycling magazines review of SRAM Rival find the Feb. issue. They are lighter, better, and priced to destroy all the competition. I can't find any reason why anyone would shell out more money on the Ultegra group.
Frontal flex design is what Look is calling this beautiful crafted front fork. And it does flex as designed. It cuts down on road feel when cornering but ride oh so plush baby.
I am deciding btwn the 51 and 53. I am 5'9 with long arms and broad shoulders. I rode the 53 and the handlebar width was great, but felt I was stretching my torso a bit....thinking it could just be seat adjust and stem. I am currently testing the 51 and feel the handlebar width is a bit small, and that I am too upright....pls help!
It sounds like the 53 fits you better. If you feel too stretched out you can run a shorter stem and tweak your seatpsot and you should be fine. I hope that helps, it's hard to help with fit without more information.
I am deciding between the S (51) and M (53) and the taller headset and shorter TT of the 566 confuses me. I am not sure how to size it. I currently ride a 2004 Trek 2300 with a BB to Saddle (Top) length of 70.5 cm and a TT of 54.4 cm
What would be a good fit for me?
Inseam: 78.83 Trunk: 64.25 Forearm: 33.75 Arm: 61.83 Thigh: 59.5 Lower Leg: 54.875 Sternal Notch: 139.625 Total Body Height: 173
Are you sure you don't have a riser stem now? I will have to measure up to reply forsure but with my -6 degree stem I would have have to put the seat very low to make the seat level with the bar tops. I added two new pictures that will give you more geometry information.
The small frame should be great for you, especially if you like to ride a little more aggressively. if you are a more upright rider then the medium will be a better choice. Thanks
Damon, thanks for your reply. I noticed the M Look has a headtube of 164mm + ~15mm for the headset gives 179mm. My current total stack is 172mm and I have nearly zero saddle to bar drop. This means without spacers, the M frame would place my bars higher than my seat. Isn't this a problem? Or maybe I've done my math wrong?
Not only does the top tube tapper in vertically but girth tapers to about 1 inch wide. A nice little pin-stripe detail on the top tube extenuates how small the tapered end of the top tube is. The details are literally all over on this frameset.
I own this bike and normally ride a 58cm with standard geometry. I bought this bike in XL (57cm) and it was actually a little big for my taste. I had it professionally fit and only and the only changed the stem to a 110mm from a 120. I am 6 foot even with a 34.5 inch inseam and the seat tube is perfect. I am going to go out and say if you are between 5'11" - 6'2 and have a normal build the 57cm is in your size range.
My brother rides 59s and loved the fit of this bike when the 120cm stem was on. He is a little longer that me. You might be on the cusp of the size for this bike but it does run a little bigger than you would expect.
The actual top tube is only 55cm while the "virtual" top tube is 57cm. So the slope is already incorporated into the size. So it will be too small for you.
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